SURFING IS COOL

Why do i surf?

Largely because i don't have a job.  Because I live on the beach.  Because I have been brainwashed by the multi-jillion dollar surf industry.

Hopefully these things are not true.  Okay, they are definitely part of the causal pathway.  But hopefully, in my head the neuronal connections look different.  More beautiful.

But how can you tell?  I surf, but I put off the things I *should* be doing.  I am incredibly motivated to jump in cold water, get thrown underwater against my fleeting will, and look terrible in comparison to the 12 year old shredders of the world. 

What's up with that?  Sure it keeps me svelte for my female admirers, but that can't be it.  Or can it?

So here's the experiment.  What would you do IF NO ONE COULD EVER KNOW?

Imagine it.  No one knows anything.  You can never claim any degree of knowledge or skill around surfing.  You can't talk about it, you can't answer questions about it, and you can't ever get it back.  Once the ride is over, it's over.

How to do this experiment.  Close your eyes.  Pretend there is no one or anything around.  What would you do?  Imagine a secret that you hold close to your heart.  Everything is a secret between you and your god.  But a Neitzschean god that really doesn't give a fuck.

WHAT WOULD REMAIN?

And this would be known as a "pathfinding"... in the next installment of LOST: The Blog.

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